Wave Surfer:
Are you a wave surfer? Ayman and Shamir both are afraid of wave surfing. But when they see the videos of wave surfing videos or documentaries, their mouth remains open. They enjoy very much. Sometimes they think about doing themselves. But they do never. The powerful waves of the vast ocean that leaves no stone unturned to take away everything. But the dreams of many surfers is to be able to face the biggest waves on this planet. So here we will get some tips that will serve to guide us towards this goal.
Sandman (anonym) is a surfing coach. He clarified that he has more experience as a coach than as a surfer of big waves because the maximum size that he surfed so far was 4 meters. We say we know understand science, so 1 meter in surfing means something different in each geographical area. Besides that, in some places, they are measured in feet. In the world of professional surfers "Big waves" means that they must be at least 6 meters tall; but for Sandman, and for anyone who wants to move forward in this interesting path, a big wave is that one which involves a challenge, and takes us to an unknown place where we have never been before, i.e. beyond our own limits.
As it is being said that surfing is, in general terms a fairly safe sport in which injuries and accidents do not occur every day. But you also have to know that big wave surfing is, of course, something different. Riding a wave of 6 to 8 meters is a huge challenging. The speed on the descending can be up to 80 kilometers per hour, and in addition to this is listening to the rumble of the big wave that bursts in your back and chases you at high speed. A romp can leave you underwater in the middle of violent turbulence within seconds. The training, the perception and the way of being in the water with big waves is really different.
Ten tips for surfing safely:
1. Are you prepared for these conditions?
To get in with big waves you must be very prepared physically, psychologically and well trained in small waves. It seems logical, but it is necessary to have it clear since life is really going for it. You must overcome fears calmly and with common sense. When you arrive at the spot, take a time of not less than 20 minutes to analyze the situation of the sea, so that once in the water the series of waves do not surprise you. If you see that the waves are too big and you get scared, do not try it, because the experience could be traumatic and very demotivating for later opportunities. In this case, you can better stay in the arena watching the experts surf, and once you know the spot well and have a good base with small waves, you can start to risk when intermediate waves appear and go, little by little, catching strength and experience. It is a path to travel, not a sudden discovery. We must consider going to the water only when we have imagined the worst situation and we have seen ourselves qualified to overcome it.
2. Exercise a lot of breathing.
Repeat, a lot!!!! The roll in a big wave can have you underwater for a long time and both the impact against the water and the turbulence of the foam can reduce the volume of air contained in the lungs even in a 75% Yoga and apnea training can help you a lot, both increase lung capacity, oxygen absorption and gas exchange, and be more relaxed and decrease metabolic reactions resulting from increased Carbon-di-oxide concentration and lack of oxygen. We must be prepared to endure 3-4 minutes in an underwater pool so we can understand it, with all its turbulence.
3. Follow a specific training program to surf big waves.
It is important to exercise adequately to our personal capacity and specifically for our objectives. Training serves to try to do things better and better, to develop the necessary capacities to achieve our goal.
4. Talk to people and know well, what you will face.
It is good to know the environment in which we operate and completely essential in the case of giant waves. Understand the currents, the weather, the stretch of coast where you will be etc. In case of emergency or that the sea ejects us after a meal of it? Numerous waves, we have to be clear how to act to get out of the place, since we may find ourselves in a rocky area, or in a place of great currents in the surroundings. Listening to the advice of veterans who have already faced challenges. Do not throw away their advice, do not lose sight of them while you're in the water and imitate them. When a wave passes and it does not let you see what is coming behind, look at its reactions and imitate them.
5. Use the most current technology and choose the right material for the type of waves.
Nowadays you have all kinds of information about the swell, meteorological information, etc. to get an approximate idea of what you are going to find in a place at a certain moment. This will allow you to measure the risks and accept challenges according to your level of surfing. Over time and after exhaustive research you will be dominating what kind of board is the right pair every moment and place, as well as the invention, suit, helmet, etc.
6. Worse alone than badly accompanied.
Never go alone with big waves. It is important to be accompanied but much better if it is well accompanied. Going to catch those mountains of water with someone means being always attentive to your partner and taking care of each other. So make sure that both you and your adventure partners have enough level of such sea conditions.
7. Take a marine rescue course and CPR.
Your adventure friends and you should know the protocols of action in emergency situations, as well as the basic techniques of maritime rescue and cardio-pulmonary resuscitation. It is easy to learn, but very difficult to remember and apply in times of maximum stress if you have not studied and rehearsed enough.
8. A lot of calm.
No matter what happens, try to keep calm. With stress the cellular consumption of oxygen is triggered, breathing is agitated, muscle tension increases and panic can appear. It's very easy to say do not panic when I'm sitting here quietly on my desk, however, when we face the biggest waves of our life out there it's not that easy. Therefore it is very important to practice relaxation and meditation exercises, perform psycho-emotional training and take care of the ability to be calm through the keys described in the relaxation and recovery strategies section.
9. If you fall, relax and enjoy.
We are more secure than we think. If you fall from the wave do not resist your power trying to swim up just drop, because you will lose energy and oxygen fighting in vain. So better let yourself be swept by the turbulence as mentally relaxed as possible, in a relaxed fetal position to avoid joint injuries from the violent turbulence and protect your head with your arms.
10. Select the right wave for your surfing.
Choosing the correct wave to paddle into will build your odds of getting a wave and reduction dissatisfaction. By being particular and paddling for waves that will be advantageous, a surfer will spare arm quality, keep up their situation in the lineup and guarantee they don't pass up a great opportunity for whatever is left of the waves in the set.
At the point when a surfer moves from riding whitewater waves to getting unbroken waves, there are various sea signals that ought to be perceived to help these surfers reliably get the waves they paddle for.
Right off the bat, they should position themselves in the sea to have the capacity to get waves on the pinnacle, that is, the place the wave at first breaks. This will give them the best chance to get the wave and accomplish the longest ride. What's more, the surfer ought to be out sufficiently far from the shoreline to get the unbroken wave and not get the wave "break on their head".
Furthermore, they should paddle emphatically when situating for and paddling around waves. Again and again, surfers paddle likely and "float" around the break. On the off chance that a wave is drawing closer, paddle with reason to position yourself, or to paddle over the swell, looking for a superior wave that might come behind.
You can watch Stream Shift TV, has a
documentary on big wave surfing called the big swell.
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